It’s the same tutorial you’ve seen in my Youtube video description and on the MSPA forums, but somehow I never got around to putting it on Tumblr!
Let’s fix that, shall we? Yay for recycled content! And I even went and updated the text a little bit to make more sense now. This was written about a year ago, after all, and Hamsteak cosplay has EXPLODED since then.
Click “Read More” for the full tutorial.
Here is a photo of most of my supplies.
Some I ended up not using, so here is the CORRECT list of what you need.
-Wig and wig cap (also horns but I didn’t have any on hand so use your IMAGINATION)
-Foundation primer (more on that in the instructions)
-Ben Nye creme liner paint in the following quantities and colors: 2x white, 1x grey, 1x steel grey
-Transparent powder (NOT TRANSLUCENT, YOU NEED TRANSPARENT OR COLORLESS POWDER, I CANNOT CAPSLOCK THIS ENOUGH.) <—clarification: you want stuff that does not have any color to it. anything made to even out skin tone or add extra white? No. You don’t want it.
-Ben Nye Final Seal (THIS IS THE STUFF OF THE GODS RIGHT HERE)
-Pencil eyeliner in white, black, and dark grey. Liquid liner is optional.
-Brushes! Large blush brush type, a small brush if you’re going to do detail shadowing, and an all-purpose eyeshadow brush
-Something to mix paint in; pictured is half of a super on clearance travel soap container from CVS.
-Something to remove your makeup with! Makeup remover sheets are a good idea but will get thoroughly clogged up to pieces. Cold creme is the theater standard, although I’m also enough of a masochist that I use Doctor Bronner’s castile soap. It’s the best stuff ever for getting things like creme paint off your skin without entirely ruining your skin afterwards. You can also read the label if you want to go insane!
-Fangs or dentures
OK, so let’s get started. And before we can get started, we need to mix us some paint.
One of the problems many early homestuck cosplayers noticed is that Ben Nye grey is way too dark. And that’s bad. This is why you are buying two containers of white makeup. Take the lids off the white and the grey paint and put them in the microwave at 10 second intervals until they are nice and mixable but not totally melted. The white will heat up way faster, so check both of them! When you are done, take some kind of stirring stick (I was using the back end of an eyeshadow brush) and scoop them out and put them into the mixing container, one white to one grey ratio. At first I thought it’d be 2:1 gray:white, so that’s what this photo reflects, but you really want to take the full contents of both containers.
Now get mixing! Mix mix mix mix mix until it is a smooth disgusting consistency.
My example rather looks like cement, doesn’t it? Now use whatever you can find (brush handle/mixing tool, your fingers, whatever) and scoop the paint back into the two empty containers. You will now have two insanely gooshy containers of Troll Grey!
Now put the lids back on because your mixture. It’s way the hell too gloopy to use it right now. If you’re absolutely desperate you can put it in the freezer to cool down, but I recommend waiting instead overnight for it to firm right back up. Delicious!
And now, for application.
BEFORE you do any of this stuff, you want to start with a clean face, and if you’re going to be wearing contacts, put them in now. My eyes are blue, and I have astigmatism so I can’t wear spiffy scleral lenses even if I could afford them, so I’m using some yellow gold lenses I ordered from an Asian circle lens site (Dollyeye Brown to be specific) that I have left over from some JoJo’s Bizarre Adventure cosplay. I’m also being too cheap to use full on dentures for pointy teeth, so instead what I have is some discount “Sexy Fangs” from the Halloween store and some tooth black to make my other teeth look pointy. You can also use tooth black to entirely black out a tooth for Equius; no dental work needed! Put your wig cap on right now if you’re using a wig; if not, keep the hair the hell out of your face with a headband or something.
To start with, take the first of several makeup wedges and apply makeup primer. What, you say? Makeup primer is ass expensive? HELL NO IT ISN’T, you just have to be not afraid to buy it in the “wrong” packaging. Monistat Soothing Care Anti-Chafe Powder Gel, from the feminine care aisle, has the exact same fucking ingredients as Smashbox foundation primer, and costs like $8 max for three or four times what you’d be paying $30 for from Smashbox. Seriously. I am not even joking. It is amazing. I am not photographing this step because really it doesn’t visually change anything; it just makes sure the makeup goes on smoothly.
Now you take a new makeup wedge and start applying the Troll Grey to all over your face. DO NOT use a streaking motion like as in normal foundation. It will look streaky and ass-tastic. What you will be instead doing is using a stippling motion to evenly dab the paint on all over. You may have to go over certain areas multiple times; this is OK.
Here’s the start…..
And here’s with the whole face done! I look massively derpy and I also went back after this and fixed some spots that had worn thin. My nose did that the most, in my experience.
This is already pretty good, right, but it looks a bit flat. In real life, people have shadows and highlights on their faces. Now highlights REALLY didn’t photograph well, so I’ll just have to describe it; take your finger and take the white that you DIDN’T blend into the grey for Troll Grey, and start putting it on wherever you think you want your skin to be a bit lighter. I recommend on the apples of your cheeks (makes you look a bit younger), underneath the eyes if you have massive eyebags like I do (UNLESS you’re being Karkat), and a little bit inbetween your eyebrows and on the center of your chin. Blend.
Now take some of the Steel Grey as shadow and put it in appropriate areas; here’s a pic before I blended for what I personally used. A bit at the temples, a bit down the side of my nose since my nose tends to look like a blob when I paint my face light colors, a bit at the hollows of my cheeks for epic cheekbones, and a bit along your jawline because for anybody, with light color facepaint, your jaw loses all definition and facial expression is important for trolling!
Now take your fingers and blend that shit so it doesn’t look like you smeared darker grey all over yourself.
Less flat skin and more dynamic realism! Although I managed to look really sad again here…
AND NOW IT IS TIME TO POWDER THE EVERLOVING FUCK OUT OF YOUR MAKEUP. This is at least 75% of what will keep it from smudging. This is super important. It also takes two hands so I have very little pictures of the process, so I’m going to have to describe it.
You take a powder puff and shake a bunch of the TRANSPARENT/COLORLESS powder onto it.
You take that powder puff and start dabbing at your face, and neck and hands and arms, covering EVERYTHING in powder. It’s OK if there is too much powder. In fact that’s preferable. You want to dab dab dab that powder on there until nothing feels sticky or greasy at all. Then you take that blush brush (a kabuki brush is the BEST for this if you have one, but for some reason I couldn’t find mine) and in a swirling motion, dust off all the extra powder.
Your creme paint is now seriously set. It is not going anywhere for a while. Fuck yeah!!
By now your eyebrows are entirely wiped out, and that looks pretty bad, especially with a black wig or black hair!. So, in the same way that you’d use eyebrow pencil, fill in your eyebrows with the dark grey eyeliner pencil. I really, REALLY sucked at photographing this.
See the difference?
And now it is time for eye makeup. It really isn’t different than ordinary eye makeup for any other kind of everyday or costume thing, and what you do depends on the character. AT THE MINIMUM for boy and girl trolls alike, put some black eyeliner on your upper lid and smudge it out a bit, and some white eyeliner underneath your lower eyelid if you’re going for a wide-eyed look; more black smudgy eyeliner if you’re going for a troll with more definition along the bottom of his/her eyes. For a more advanced tip, you can line your waterline with dark grey, black, or white pencil to hide the pink human skin other than the inner corner of your eyes, but I don’t know too many people who can do that very well. I’d recommend using black or grey shadow up to the crease so your eyes stand out a bit more, and some white eyeshadow for contrast. You also want to curl your lashes and put on at least one coat of black mascara. Yes, even for guy cosplayers and/or guy trolls, because at this point you have white eyelashes and that looks hella dumb. If you’re doing Nepeta or Kanaya or someone, consider using false lashes. If you are being Karkat, make yourself look like you haven’t slept in a week.
This is what it looks like when I was done, complete with the OMFG TERRIFYING factor of my contacts slipping away from center (holy fuck you guys i can see forever):
And now for the last part of active makeupping, the lips.
Because you’ve painted your lips grey, you can redraw your lips slightly and it’ll look fine. In this case as an example, I’m drawing my upper lip smoother and my lower lip less full than it actually is. First draw and fill the lip shape with black eyeliner pencil, and then go over it with black lipstick. It’s OK if it doesn’t look perfect, trust me!
In fact you’ll find mine looks downright craptacular and like my hand was shaking like a caffeine addict in withdrawal, but that’s OK because we’re about to fix it! Get a nice angled brush and load it up with Troll Grey, and carefully paint around the edges to define the shape and smooth out the edges. After this, powder your lips and the area around them.
So much better!
And now for the piece de resistance…. FINAL SEAL. This is pretty much the most godly theatrical makeup sealant in the universe, and sadly I don’t have photos of how it is applied so you will have to rely on my descriptions. Mist a small amount into the air and walk through it, or mist it onto your face/neck/arms/wherever from a distance of AT LEAST a foot and a half away. You don’t want it to EVER end up beading up on your skin or feeling more than damp. Let it dry. Mmm, minty! (Close your eyes while using this, obviously.) Repeat in several more light coats; when I’m going out for a full day in body paint, I normally use between five and eight coats.
OK, that might have taken a while (or not; I only spent half an hour doing up my face, although it would have taken more time if I had to do my neck and my arms), but you are now pretty much DONE! Put on your wig and horns and celebrate. And sadly I had no horns for this tutorial, so these pics will have to do.
ONE YEAR LATER FAQ
Q: Will this smudge?
A: Somewhat. The more you powder the less it smudges, and proper use of final seal helps remove smudging, but light color paint against black clothes will smudge by the end of the day a bit. You can help by PUT ON YOUR SHIRT AFTER YOUR MAKEUP PLEASE.
Q: I’m really low on money, how can I save money?
A: I’ve seen a “Corpse Grey” type color also from Ben Nye that looks pretty good instead of any custom blend (but the same shadowing and highlighting colors!) Also try substituting corn starch for powder, or Aqua Net for Final Seal. Also consider using the Snazaroo stuff a lot of people also like; I haven’t tried it myself but I’ve seen good results!
Q: Where do I get the makeup online?
BITCH I HAVE NO FUCKING CLUE OH MY GOD I WISH I KNEW! One of my followers has suggested this place! I live near several theatrical makeup supply sources. I buy all my weird makeup stuff locally. I would be totally lost for where to buy this online. However, if you’re in the California San Francisco East Bay Area, I recommend Encore (www.encoreonstage.com) in Walnut Creek and Pleasanton.
Q: How the hell do I get ALL the makeup back into the pots?
A: UNLIKE THE TUTORIAL, mix in a SMOOTH plastic bowl, using a small spatula.
Q: How do I Gamzee?
A: I HAVE VIDEOS FOR THAT! Please watch them.
Q: How do I eye makeup?
A: Just… any eye makeup, honestly. Get a friend to show you how to basic eyeliner, or look up some videos on youtube.
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